I was seeing that there were recalibrations on the pack occurring every few days. So it needed attention. Then one day the IMA light came on. So It was time to remove the pack and start testing it.

Here is a link to Metrompg’s spreadsheet of detailed test data for his Insight pack that inspired the format of my spreadsheet.

This is the pack with the cover and carpet removed.

Here are the 3 charger/dischargers and the 2 power supplies used in the testing of all 20 sticks. One of the chargers is a MRC Super Brain 989. The other 2 are Super Nova 250’s.

After the pack was tested and all of the sticks were brought back to normal, I equalized the pack with a variac for 15 hours on 175vdc, then at 177vdc for a few more hours. The fan was run on 13.8vdc during equalization. Then the pack was re-installed.

It’s tough to see the gray duct tape under the 2 fan resistors that is used to cover the sharp edges of the sheet metal. This is where the 2 wires pass through to the outside that carry full pack voltage. Eventually they will be connected to a constant current grid charger that I plan to leave mounted inside the car.

This is the cooling fan for the pack. It pulls air through the pack.

I updated the Insight pack removal and disassembly pages so that they would print correctly. Basically I just adjusted the picture size and text spacings. Printers should be set to landscape and .5″ margins on all 4 sides.

Honda calls this mount a rear engine mount. I call it a transmission mount. In any case, I had to replace it with a factory new part so that the clutch wouldn’t chatter so badly. It worked very well!! The clutch engagement is far smoother than it’s ever been. Ran about $97usd.

Sometime around November or December 2011, the motor mount repair I made using the Loctite Polyurethane PL Window, Door and Siding Sealant from Home Depot had worked very well for about a year or slightly less, then failed. As you can see by the pic, the urethane does not apply very smoothly. It’s very sticky coming out of the tube. A urethane that flows out of the tube like most home caulking compounds do, would yield nicer looking results. The old urethane had cracked straight through were the rubber had originally cracked. It was still very well stuck to the original rubber every where it was still attached.

This time around I used something like 2-3 times more urethane to repair the broken leg of each mount and to add support to the reverse gear part of the mount. The tube of urethane was around a year old. It took some digging to clear out the outlet. Last time I cured it under an incandescent light bulb. This time I only had compact flourescent. It was not nearly as warm. It cured for about 20 hours, then I drove it carefully out of the garage and into an outside parking space where I let it set until the next day. Currently as of mid March 2012, the mount is working great. It’s a bit too stiff as there is some vibration added to the rear of the interior and the car over all during very specific rpm’s. There is more vibration conducted to the car chassis with this stiffer mount as I let the clutch out. But it does work far better than a broken mount.

I’ve thought about machining out all of the old rubber, then filling it in with a smooth flowing urethane, then machining the grooves just like the factory mount had in it. We’ll see how long this one lasts.

Since the urethane added to the mount was only cured for 40 hours when I test drove the Insight today, I was a bit nervous that it would not be cured enough to withstand the test drives. But it worked. It does not respond so harshly to having a chattering clutch with the motor mount repair/improvement that I made with the Loctite Urethane from Home Depot. I tested the worst case situation for the motor mount over by my mail box. The driveway there is a bit steep. I usually have to back out of it going up hill. Backing up this hill made the engine shake thunderously due to the worn out rear motor mount. But now it feels as though the clutch is still chattering, but the whole engine and chassis are not responding to the chattering any longer. I could back up the Insight at far lower rpm and still get a fairly smooth motion out of the car considering the clutch chatter. Now the test will be to see how long the urethane mod lasts. The cure time is 7 days. I’m hoping that setting it to cure under a 100w incandescent lap helped to shorten the cure time. In fact the lamp browned the white urethane just a little on the surface. The center bushing and the mount itself was quite hot after sitting over night under the 100w bulb. Those inefficient bulbs sure make for easy curing ovens. So I think this repair/mod of the rear motor mount was a worthy improvement for general reasons, but specifically for helping tame the clutch chattering so many of us have. I knew the mount was stiffer as I could not tilt the engine up and down with my hand while laying under the car. It was located far more firmly. I could not tell that any more vibration was added to the chassis by making this mount a little stiffer. The car still feels smooth and quiet as far as vibrations are concerned.

The car seems smooth on acceleration since I’ve cleaned out the egr plate. I’ll still swap out the egr valves to see if they produce any noticeable change in driving feel. I also put a bunch of missing screws back into the under chassis aerodynamic panels. They cost a bit from Honda.

I saw that there was some room for a screwdriver to pry the crankshaft dampener away from the engine to help check for end play. Pushing the crank back in will be tougher.

The fuel rail washers went in today. No more fuel leak.

Here is the rear motor mount with Loctite Polyurethane PL Window, Door and Siding Sealant from Home Depot. I found a post in a Honda-Tech thread that a guy tried it and liked it’s vibration isolation characteristics better than the 3M Window Weld Urethane. The bridge added to the top section should really help the clutch chattering when in reverse. I made the repair late at night. Too late to notice that the urethane was white instead of black. Gray is the closest color they offer to black.

A few things I found out tonight working on the Insight.

There is not an inspection panel to check the crankshaft end play. The oil pan would have to come off. The oil pan is clear of any obstructions, but it has the oil filter and something else attached to it. Decisions, decisions.

Here is the rear motor mount from my MT Insight. The mount is pictured just like it sits in the car. The broken leg points toward the front of the car, the good leg towards the rear, and the short leg points upward. The lower right leg is cracked clear through. Both lower legs are compressed when the car is in any forward drive gear. That means the lower legs are stretched when in reverse. With a broken leg the motor mount will not dampen the engine when in reverse. I was thinking of taking some of that Urethane window caulking called 3M Window Weld and gluing the broken leg back into place, but more importantly adding a bridge from the top leg to the inner ring. That will help the reverse gear chatter and help hold the broken leg in compression and hopefully make it a bit more stable. A new mount is about $80-$100USD. So a tube of Urethane and some time is a good trade off. The motor and trans are balanced well so that the rear mount being removed does not require anything to hold the motor in place.

Egr function is about volume of flow. A small reduction in cross sectional area creates a large reduction in the volume of egr gas flow. So I suspect these egr plates need to be kept clean for this super high performance Insight engine to do it’s job at 80-100mpg.

I ended up touching up the egr plate with q-tips and carb cleaner. The carbon is so dense and sticky that using the small screwdriver to get 99% of the carbon out was a mandatory first step! The egr jets (blocks) have tapered holes, so getting into each of them takes a little diligence.

Far better!

I just got back from Fuel Injector Corp in Livermore, CA. The injectors all had the same flow rate and also had an excellent pattern. Robert put 3 new o-rings on each injector. The flow rate that most peopel read about is 145 ml/min. But that’s only at full open. Mine were also checked at the equivalent of 3k rpm, with 43 psi fuel pressure. The seal that goes between the injector and the intake manifold had tiny cracks in it on the lip, at the very top of the seal. So I had to order them from Honda. They are a rare item so it was going to be 3 days. So I had them expedited and they will get here tomorrow for $12 more. The seals were only about $4 each. I could see reusing the old ones, but with 220k miles I am just not going to do this work twice. So the Insight sits for another day. I’ll go get them and the o-rings for the intake manifold in the morning. I may take the egr plate back out since it’s waiting for o-rings anyway and use some solvent and q-tips to polish up the passages a little more. Depends on how energetic I feel. We have plans tonight so I may not have time. Regardless the egr plate is clean and will help the Insight run far better when it’s finally back together!

The fuel injectors are out, and ready to go to Fuel Injection Corp in Livermore, CA in the morning. It’s about an hour drive. For $25 for each injector they will get flow tested, cleaned, and flow tested again. One guy on the InsightCentral forum had this done and his flow numbers between injectors vastly improved. Drivability was greatly improved too.

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